Island of fire and ice
No mistake – this is not an intro to a trip to Iceland in winter but to Sylt, the northernmost German island.
To begin with the ice.
I visited Sylt for a week in February.
Temperatures were well below freezing and the mud flats covered with ice.
Whilst there is a ferry link to Rømø – the neighbouring southernmost Danish island – most people go to to Sylt by train, including motorail when traveling with/in the own car.
“Traveling giants in the wind” await them when arriving at Westerland railway station.
During summer you almost can’t pass the beach because of masses of wicker beach chairs.
In winter only a few tourists stroll along the coast line of Westerland beach.
On the elbow (“Ellenbogen”) one sets feet on Germany’s northernmost land point having a view to the neighbouring wind parks.
Morsum cliffs at the eastern tip of Sylt are special because of the shifted layers of geological formations.
The southernmost end of Sylt at Hörnum needs heavy coast protection otherwise being washed away by currents, floods and storms.
The mud flats around Sylt are difficult to navigate especially in extreme weather conditions.
Many ships stranded – the wrecks becoming visible at low tide.
The story behind “Mariann” is different. It burnt down when moored at Braderup.
Due to the exposed location five lighthouses were built on Sylt, with the exception of “Rotes Kliff” lighthouse all of them still active. They lead the ships through the deeps around the island.
Whales don’t know about lighthouses. One already perished sperm whale drifted into the waterway to Hörnum at the time of my visit. To avoid blocking of the harbour entrance it was dragged onto the beach and taken apart for further examination.
In the past whaling had a tradition on Sylt. Many captains of whalers lived here when not at sea.
Successful whaler captains became wealthy and let the typical Frisian houses built.
Neolithic graves and round barrows indicate early settlement of Sylt.
An old North Frisian tradition is the so called “Biikebrennen”.
Biikes (beacons) – the predecessors of lighthouses – were lighted around the coast at the beginning of the whaling season (21 February by decree) to lead the whalers through the tidal flats.
Today it’s a Volksfest. The falling cask on top of the burning Biike marks the beginning of spring.